A Monstrous Temple: Wat Sam Phran, the ‘Dragon Temple’ Near Bangkok, Is Captivating
There are countless temples in Thailand. In the capital city of Bangkok, for example, you will find breathtaking temples, some of which are among the city’s must-sees, such as Wat Pho, Wat Sakae, Wat Arun, The Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and, of course, the temples that make up the Grand Palace complex. In northern Chiang Mai, there are over 300 temples on almost every corner. With all due respect to them – and when the writer of these lines last traveled to Bangkok, he visited quite a few temples and was very impressed – we are here to talk about a unique temple, some would even say bizarre or scary. The Buddhist temple of Wat Sam Phran, better known as the “Dragon Temple,” is located a few dozen kilometers from Bangkok and can be a great addition to your Thai trip.
We are fond of historical places with scary sides, and there is no doubt that the Dragon Temple meets this definition. As you can deduce from its name, this temple combines exceptional architecture, the most prominent element of which is a giant dragon surrounding the pink building in what looks like an amusement park facility.
If you consider the temple’s importance for the locals, but also one scandal that significantly damaged everything it represents, you understand why it is time to review one of the notable sites in Thailand.
What Is Wat Sam Phran?
The truth is that it is difficult to remain indifferent to the unique appearance of the Wat Sam Phran. The central structure of the Buddhist temple is a cylindrical pink tower, which includes 17 floors. The tower rises to a height of 80 meters, which is no coincidence because the number 80 represents the age of Buddha at the time of his death.
The ascent to the top of the tower is made via a winding staircase, some parts of which have remained neglected over the years, while along the route, you will find Buddhist statues and other decorations. The temple’s designers crafted some passages to create a unique walking experience, simultaneously simulating a physical and spiritual ascent.
The central element here is that, from the base to the roof, a giant dragon in shades of green and red with golden scales winds around the temple. The dragon’s legs are on the ground, its body winds around the floors, and the dragon’s head (where you can find the Buddhist temple) is above the roof of the building.
The choice of a dragon is not surprising when you consider Buddhism. The dragon symbolizes strength and power, and its combination in the temple, from the bottom to the top, represents the ascent of man from sorrow to happiness or, in a more mystical sense, from hell to heaven. The 17 floors symbolize the heavenly realms when a person reaches the afterlife, according to their actions during life.
The Story About A Snake Who Wanted To Be A Monk
Everything may be related to a mythological snake. Thai legend tells of the Phaya Naga, a mythical creature closely associated with the structure of the Dragon Temple. Phaya Naga was a powerful, snake-like creature that lived in the depths of rivers. He wanted to achieve spiritual enlightenment and dedicate his life to the Buddha. The snake asked to join the Sangha community – that is, to become a Buddhist monk.
The problem is that when he approached the Buddha requesting to become a monk, Buddha rejected his appeal. According to Buddhist tradition, only humans can become monks, so the Naga (a supernatural being, as you remember) could not be part of the monastic community. The Naga did not give up and used his mystical powers to transform himself into a human being. He was accepted as a monk when he met the Buddha in human form. However, he returned to his snake form during his sleep, and his true identity was revealed.
Phaya Naga was forced to leave the monastic community and did not fulfill his dream of becoming a traditional Buddhist monk with yellow robes. Still, Buddha appreciated his efforts and agreed to grant him the symbolic role of a special monk wearing white, with the authority to protect the monks and assist them in various ways.
Returning to Wat Sam Phran, the giant snake that winds around the temple represents the inner journey that man goes through, from suffering to enlightenment. It is a message of hope, determination, and spiritual transformation: just as Phaya Naga wanted to become a monk and approach Buddhism despite all the differences, man can climb step by step upwards to reach spiritual fulfillment. For this reason, according to local belief, making a wish before climbing to the top of the temple is a virtue for good luck.
The Gloomy Side Of The Dragon Temple
The Dragon Temple was officially registered in 1985 to combine religion, mysticism, and architecture. People have used the temple for various purposes, such as worship and meditation, and continue to do so. Today, locals come to the site, light incense, and place offerings for Buddha and other spirits.
The problem is that at some point, its status among the locals declined significantly under terrible circumstances: several of the temple’s clergy were involved in cases of sexual assault, which resulted in lengthy prison sentences. In the 1980s, the then-head of the temple, Abbot Phra Pawana Puttho, was convicted of rape of no less than nine underage girls, and was sentenced to 160 years in prison.
The popularity of Wat Sam Phran has declined, and its image has been damaged. It still has quite a few visitors, whether locals who do so for religious purposes or tourists who come to see the cultural and architectural uniqueness it expresses.
How To Get To Wat Sam Phran?
The Dragon Temple is in a province called Nakhon Pathom, about 40 kilometers west of Bangkok. Near it, you will find seven small shrines dedicated to Buddha, a temple for each day of the week, and a garden that looks like it came out of fairy tales. Throughout the garden, you will find statues of animals and other creatures, such as a big white rabbit, jumping dolphins, tigers, elephants, and more. You can also visit a turtle-shaped cave here, with a small pool (for decoration) inside.
Although this is not one of Thailand’s most sought-after tourist sites, and although there are quite a few famous and much more visited temples, this is one of Thailand’s interesting hidden gems. A visit here can be suitable for those who want to get to know Thailand’s authentic and cultural sides, fans of unique buildings, and people who like strange buildings bordering on the scary.
You can get to the Dragon Temple from Bangkok in several ways:
Wat Sam Phran Tours
Many day trips from Bagnkok include a visit to the temple alongside other attractions such as the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market (sometimes known as the Bangkok Floating Market, although it is about 100 km from the city) and the strange folding Umbrella Market Maeklong, located at a train station, so called because several times a day the traders there are forced to fold all the stalls because a train passes by. Another successful combination of the temple is with the Amphawa Floating Market and the impressive Wat Bang Kung, known as “Root Temple,” located inside a tree.
The temple’s inclusion in ordinary day trips from Bangkok is a significant advantage, making a visit here very “accessible” and allowing it to be done alongside even more common tourist sites.
Rental Car Or Taxi
A direct trip from Bangkok takes about 60-50 minutes. In our experience, most tourists do not choose to rent a car in Thailand for various reasons (mainly, driving here is not easy), but you can take a taxi from Bangkok at a reasonable price.
Public Transport
You can get to the Dragon Temple by bus, but the truth is that it is a long, somewhat complicated, and not very successful task. We understood that no bus line goes directly from Bangkok to Wat Sam Phran. You can take a bus from Bang Wa station to Wat Sam Phran, which will take you a few kilometers from the temple. From there you can take a taxi.
Although this option is the cheapest, it isn’t very easy, because the journey may take two hours one way. Therefore, the recommendation is to prefer daily trips, which will allow you to combine other interesting tourist sites or grab a taxi.
Essential Tips Before Visiting Wat Sam Phran
- The temple is open to visitors every day. It is supposed to open around 6:00 AM – although there are reports that it sometimes happens only two or three hours later – and closes around 6:00 PM. However, it is said that on some days of the week, the monks who still live and work there may be busy with activities that prevent tourists from visiting the temple. Weekends seem to be “safer” to visit, but even then, nothing is guaranteed.
- Wat Sam Phran has no entrance fee, but we recommend leaving a certain amount to allow the place to continue (something like 80-100 baht is a solid amount).
- Unlike the famous and touristy temples of Bangkok and Chiang Mai, the number of tourists here is minimal. Therefore, most of the time, you can come here and enjoy the silence, which is very suitable for temples of this type.
- Since this is a Buddhist temple in the complete sense of the word, you must dress modestly – mainly covering the shoulders and knees, bare feet, etc.
- It is worth bringing a camera, if only because the view from the top of the temple (if you can enter it) is very impressive.
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