Carved in Terror: Koh Samui’s Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks Will Leave You Petrified

One of the key tools that film and media studies have given me is the ability to identify phallic and ionic symbols – that is, objects that resemble the male and female genitalia, respectively – almost everywhere. Sometimes this is intentional, out of a desire to give a particular reputation to an object that appears in the frame. In some cases, it is defiant art, for example, symbols you will find in museums to deliver some social criticism. And sometimes, as in the case of the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks on the tropical island of Koh Samui in Thailand, known as “Hin Yai and Hin Ta,” it is nature that makes us laugh. Or even a little scared by the bizarre sides of our nature.

When I visited Thailand a few years ago, including a few days on Koh Samui, I knew I had to include the playful, provocatively shaped rocks in my itinerary: because they are funny, can help us take great photos, and are also part of the local tradition, if you are to judge by the crowds of tourists who come here. The good news is that it’s very easy to fit the rocks into your schedule, as most organized tours of the island include a stop of at least a few minutes at Lamai Beach, the location of these weird rocks.

But what’s the story here? What is the local belief about the Grandmother and Grandfather rocks? And is it a legitimate natural attraction, or a money-grubbing tourist scam? You’re welcome to read on and decide for yourself.

What Are The Grandfather And Grandmother Rocks In Koh Samui?

The Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks, or their original name “Hin Ta & Hin Yai”, are located in the southeastern part of Koh Samui. You’ll find them on Lamai Beach, the second largest beach on the island after the super-touristy Chaweng, near the traditional Muslim fishing village of Hua Thanon.

On the white beach, between coconut trees, you’ll find two adjacent rocks whose shape resembles a male and female genitalia. These unique shapes have been formed naturally throughout history. As a result of the gradual erosion of granite rocks by seawater and strong winds. Which shows that still water runs deep, but can also create rocks in shapes that penetrate… um.. deep.

The male rock, “Hin Ta” (Grandfather Rock), stands out clearly and distinctly from the shore and the sea. It is the rock that attracts most of the attention of visitors, thanks to its obvious phallic shape, which makes it the subject of many photographs and amusing comments from tourists. The female rock, “Hin Yai” (Grandmother Rock), requires a little more imagination from the viewer to recognize its unique shape as a woman’s vagina, but it is also an integral part of the attraction. Especially if seen in the proper context.

The rocks’ central location on the southeast coast of the island has made them an almost mandatory stop on any organized tour of Koh Samui. Thousands of tourists come every day to take pictures of the unique rocks, buy souvenirs from the nearby stalls, and enjoy the other attractions in the area. I assume that some of those tourists also take funny pictures of themselves in front of those rocks, as if it is normal to take a photo in front of “genitals” to get a few likes on social media. Still, I sometimes struggle to understand this generation.

The Tragic Local Legend About The Rocks

Going back to my academic studies, I recall several classes on Sigmund Freud’s psychoanalytic theory, which is present in many horror films (not just Alfred Hitchcock’s brilliant “Psycho”, which is considered the ultimate example). Freud referred to the Primal Scene, a concept that describes a formative moment in which a child is exposed to or imagines his parents having sex. This experience, which is often experienced as incomprehensible but emotionally stimulating, may provoke confusion, anxiety, or sexual arousal, and of course also leave a deep mark on the child’s psychosexual development. Freud saw it as a significant element in shaping the unconscious conflicts that will continue to affect the person in adulthood.

Now, I don’t know if any of you have seen or imagined your grandparents having sex. I very much hope that didn’t happen, even if your grandma is someone like Mia Goth in the “X” trilogy. And yet, if we ask Freud in a séance, his spirit might claim that in front of this display in nature, it is difficult not to experience a kind of collective “primordial scene”, whose protagonists are granite rocks – hereafter grandparents – having sex on the beach.

The local legend, in any case, takes the process of rock formation to other, more sane places. It is a romantic and moving story about love, family devotion, and tragedy. According to local legend, many years ago, an elderly couple lived in a small village named Ta (Grandpa) Khreng and Yai (Grandma) Riam. When the time came to find a suitable bride for their only son, the two decided to set out on a sea voyage to the nearby province of Khiri Khan. They planned to ask for the hand of a certain desirable girl, the daughter of a man named Ta Monglai (remember, there were no Tinder or dating apps back then in Thailand). The tragedy that befell them is a testament to the power of love and the sacrifices parents make for their children.

The elderly couple boarded a small ship, embarking on their journey with excitement, hoping to find a bride for their son finally. But nature, or should we say faith, had other plans. During the voyage, a strong storm broke out at sea, and the strong waves sank the small ship. The elderly couple refused to give up, but died eventually. The gods, moved by this devotion and love, decided to immortalize them forever. They turned the bodies of the elderly into two uniquely shaped rocks, which will remind future generations of the importance of the power of parental love and devotion, and if you’re a little cynical about the shape of the rocks chosen – why it’s essential to have sex even in old age, with or without medicine to increase erections and deal with impotence.

Well, the truth is that it’s easy and probably a little unfair to include stupid comments about sex in old age. The truth is that this story is part of the cultural heritage of the place, whose residents treat the rocks with respect and appreciation, also because they teach us some important messages about love and devotion, loss and fertility. It’s not yet a place of high spiritual importance like some of the temples in Thailand, but it’s still a place worth treating with respect. Especially if you encounter locals praying or even making sacrifices for love, luck, fertility, and the like.

Locals believe that the rocks bring good luck to couples who visit them, making them an excellent choice for honeymooners or couples seeking a blessing for their relationship. At worst – and apologies again for the erection jokes – they will receive inspiration that could improve their sex life, knowing that size (and age) don’t matter, etc., etc.

What’s Bizarre Can Be Scary (Sometimes)

At first glance, the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks on Koh Samui may seem like a prank by nature with a particularly crude sense of humor. But after the funny pictures are washed away in the feed, something about these rocks begins to unsettle. Maybe it’s the blatant, almost embarrassing, exposure of the genitals on a gigantic scale. Perhaps it’s the feeling that someone – or something – sculpted them on purpose, out of an urgent need to leave a mark, literally. Because the thing about giant phallic and Ionic symbols is that at some point, we might feel like they’re looking back at us.

You’ll find many places in Thailand that are much scarier than these rocks, but there’s still something creepy about them, in the opinion of this writer. This place not only looks like organs, with a bit of imagination (and a bit too much horror movie mileage), it also feels a bit like a scene from an Asian horror movie: a beach that is quiet at times (assuming there aren’t many tourists at the time of visit), waves that crash just when the tourists are quiet (hoping the beach won’t be too crowded), and local legends of love and tragic death that float in the air like steam over sticky rice. Some will see it as an impressive natural phenomenon, while others will swear they’ve heard whispers from among the rocks (or sound of older people having sex. Sorry, I can’t help it! Damn!). We haven’t heard any stories about the place being haunted, at least not yet, but who knows?

What To Do In Lamai Beach Koh Samui?

With all due respect to the rocks and the impressive physical stats of the characters they represent (seriously: with genitals like that, how on earth did the elderly couple in the story only have one child?), there’s a limit to how much you can count on it as a tourist attraction. You can visit to see them, take some pictures, and hear the story, but that doesn’t hold water. If the weather permits, you can go for a short dip in the pleasant waters.

The good news is that there is plenty to see and do here. Lamai Beach is considered very beautiful, and it is also calmer than the super-touristy Chaweng Beach (and still, there are many more peaceful and pristine beaches in Koh Samui). You can swim on the beach, buy from the food stalls scattered there, order a smoothie, or buy local souvenirs, which naturally focus on the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks.

How Can You Visit The Grandfather And Grandmother Rocks?

Staying Near Lamai Beach

It’s easy to fit the Hin Ta & Hin Yai rocks into your Koh Samui schedule. There are a few highly recommended hotels on Lamai Beach (here’s a list from Agoda), and you can stay there for at least part of your time in Koh Samui. The problem is that if you want to be closer to the action, there are probably more accessible beaches.

<< Here are some ot the best hotels in Koh Samui >>

Visit The Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks Independently

Another option is to get to the beach using public transportation (mainly taxis or tuk-tuks) or on a rented car or motorbike. Here, we take on the role of the educational policeman, urging you not to rent a motorbike without a valid license from your country. This applies even if agencies offer them at low prices, and even if they seem convenient and cool. Some will also recommend avoiding renting a car in Koh Samui, with its problematic driving culture, and prefer local drivers who charge low amounts for their services.

Sightseeing Tours In Koh Samui

Want to get to know Koh Samui up close? A large part of the tourist tours on the island include a stop at the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks, usually for a relatively short time. During the day, you can visit a large part of the list of attractions on Koh Samui, such as:

🏝️ Wat Phra Yai (The Big Buddha Temple), which is the most famous temple on the island. The highlight here is a gilded Buddha statue, about 12 meters high, surrounded by reliefs, smaller statues, and viewpoints.

🏝️ Na Muang Waterfall 1 – A lovely waterfall located in a tropical rainforest and considered the largest and most impressive on the island. It offers several clear natural pools for a short dip. It’s also a very romantic place, at least based on the fact that while I was swimming there for fun during my Koh Samui trip, a couple of tourists from Germany tried to ruin my moment with a casual marriage proposal that entered the frame of my swimming.

🏝️ Wat Kunaram Temple, famous mainly for the mummified body of a monk who died in 1973, and is today displayed in a meditation pose, wearing sunglasses since corpses need protection from the sun rays.

🏝️ Buddha Secret Garden, with dozens of charming statues in the heart of green surroundings.

🏝️ Coconut groves are considered one of the symbols of Koh Samui. We recommend trying the local coconut, which stars in smoothies, for example.

The best tours in Koh Samui offer a significant advantage in terms of convenience and cost-effectiveness. They allow you to see several attractions in one day, including transportation, and often also have an English-speaking local guide who can tell you about the place and the legends associated with it. They can save you time and problems, considering that driving and navigating in Thailand can be challenging.

On the Get Your Guide website, you can find a variety of tours in Koh Samui, including the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks, as well as some of the attractions we mentioned here. You can reserve a place with just a few clicks, pay on the trip date, and cancel up to 24 hours in advance without any charges.

Grandmother and Grand Rocks may have become an Instagrammable and entertaining attraction, a source of bad jokes from people trying to catch a sexual organ in the camera frame, or silly sentences like “Is it a rock, or are you happy to see me?”, which I just made up because I am mad. Behind it also lies a story with a mythical flavor: about a pair of lovers who suffered a tragedy at sea and were forever carved in stone. The place combines wild beauty and local mythology that hangs in the air like an old curse. With a bit of imagination (or watching one too many horror movies), even the innocent formations of nature begin to seem like other things.

Share on Facebook

Tweet

Follow us

Save